Postcards from Sorrento (via Napoli)
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Last summer, when it was hot all over Europe…my friend Simona finally got to wed her childhood sweetheart in the most spectacular wedding at Villa Zagara Sorrento.
We’ve been to Naples and Ischia before but never to Sorrento.
I was a little worried as I couldn’t really find clear enough information about beaches and such on the internet, try as I might! Even instagram didn’t really pull through.
We stayed a night in Naples in the old town in a sweet Airbnb, it was perfectly fitting for a fleeting one night stay. The girls and I particularly enjoyed the disco lights in the shower! There was a whole kerfuffle with a porky pizza too chuckles although at 1am that night, I wasn’t so impressed with Chris's mishap! Ha!
The following day we had a thrilling and chaotic taxi journey to the port to catch a ferry to Sorrento. We missed our chance to get a direct ferry, so opted to change at Capri. It was a smooth zip over to Capri, which really stunned us as we arrived into the port. We didn’t stay to mooch but frantically looked around for our next ferry to Sorrento in the blistering heat!
On arrival into Sorrento, the wheel and handle of one of our suitcases broke off, we foolishly attempted to walk up a ridiculous winding hill up to our hotel but relented as the heat beat down upon us. Poor kiddos, they really tried too!
We scrambled into a taxi which effortlessly took us outside of our hotel, Maison il Conservatorio. A gorgeous walkway of arched windows, looking out at a little play school, which lead you to the lift, which take you to the cool and stylish lobby of this wonderful little hotel. I’ve popped some pics below of our room (we booked the Junior Suite). It was perfect for our stay. The shutters as well as blinds plus the AC kept us cool throughout our stay and helped us nap in the afternoon.
Now, we didn’t realise quite how hot it would end up that June (the wedding day reached 43 degrees!!!!!!) so we may have opted for a hotel with a pool but the breakfasts, the service, the rooms and sweet terrace to relax on in the evenings if you wanted, more than made up for the the lack of pool! In fact, it didn’t feel lacking.
They were so attentive and helpful throughout our stay that I feel that always trumps anything you may have thought you needed, you know?
Not to mention the fact that they had a partnership with one of the beaches where you could get a nice little discount. It’s at Marameo Beach Club. The beaches are super easy to get to; you can walk down the steps or opt for the lift. The lift was cheap, pretty quick (even when you had to queue) and the easiest in the heat.
The beach we used via the hotel wasn’t the cheapest, but for the 4 of us, the ease of getting a delicious lunch, loungers and access to a perfect little beach, was wonderful! The cost with discount was (€100) for a full day and 2 loungers (we realised after getting 4 on the first day, we didn’t need as many because we aren’t the stay still for too long kinda family, with the kiddos being still quite little!). They spent hours searching with eager delight, perfect pieces of sea glass, whilst me and Chris took turns to swim out into the deeper water and soak in the sunshine that twinkled on the surface. We read and then ambled over the dining area, where we feasted on a variety of seafood and carbs!
There is a small but sweet free beach, near where you arrive at the port, it’s called Marina Piccola. There is a “public” beach but it seemed like it was only available to residents/people with a membership locally (I thought it was good that this existed!). They’re okay and more sandy than the pebbly beaches! You could pack a light picnic and spend an easy couple of hours. There are little kiosks and shops nearby too.
In the opposite direction to the beaches, you head to the marina; it’s about a fifteen minute walk from the centre and at night it looks so pretty. Here there are little beaches and restaurants too. You can also get the train to beautiful little beaches along the coast, in summer these may be less crowded. Personally, we didn’t find it too stuffy even when it was fully booked at the beach club and loved the ease of it all. Plus the girls were entertained for literally hours in the shade of the deck, hunting for beautiful sea glass.
For water cool relief and fun, we also paid to use the pool at the Grand Hotel Cocumella; it sits at the edge of a cliff with its own private beach too. The views looking out are breathtaking! The pool is large and even in that hot summer heat, it was pretty empty! We got there early to make the most of our use! The cost for use includes loungers and towels too, so you all have to do is turn up and enjoy! The food and drinks aren’t the cheapest but every mouthful was divine. I had a salad, the girls shared some pasta and Chris enjoyed an incredible pizza.
Sorrento’s little alleyways that gently spill onto piazzas are full of hidden treasures, definitely worth meandering in. I think even the touristy shops have a certain charm in honesty because they’re full of kitsch little souvenirs and tasty morsels! A must buy if you can, is one of the artisanal made trinket boxes. I couldn’t resist treating myself to one and it delights me each time I pop my jewellery in! Sometimes I think there can be a certain level of elitism and classism attached to what is deemed to be “touristy” or “overpriced” but we have to remember that a lot of these places that have huge influxes of people during the summer need to make money to last them the year through for the quieter months. People deserve to be paid well. A rule of thumb that seems to serve me well both abroad and at home is, the more chintzy or kitsch the decor? the better the food!
A few places we loved eating at were:
Misaki Sushi : really good quality sushi, great service and kid friendly too.
Ristorante 'O Parrucchiano La Favorita : the food was simple and not mind blowing but some of the dishes were exceptional like the grilled octopus! the decor and vastness of the restaurant is pretty epic! We loved wandering around the lemon gardens lit up hundreds of fairy lights after we ate, worth the price tag in our opinion.
Ristorante Zi Ntonio : Delicious pastas and starters, cosy atmosphere and lots of options for everyone! We loved the stuffed & fried zucchini flowers.
MòMò : Great pasta dishes (tortellini was amazing!) and more casual sandwiches and fries for lunch times are yummy! They are family friendly and have super great service. I think if you’ve been to the beach and are heading back to your hotel/apartment, it’s an easy, reliable option as it’s super close to the lifts.
A’Marenna : The spot for sandwiches, light bites, beers or coffees! Their panini are exceptional, like truly. Lots of vegan options too! We came back each time they were open for lunches. It’s also queer friendly and their service/warmth is palpable. You can grab a small table outside or perch with a cold drink whilst you wait for them to make your sandwich!
D’Anton Design & Bistrot : We didn’t eat here but it’s a perfect place for people watching in the evenings when the air so much cooler. It’s got some cute outside tables under lemon trees and twinkly lights.
Grand Hotel Cocumella : We had a dreamy lunch here whilst we used their pool! Really recommend both the pool and patio restaurant which opens for lunch. Their gardens are just gorgeous for a post swim, lunch wander.
For ice cream there are a few places but we enjoyed Raki on Corso Italia, Gelateria Primavera also on Corso! Our favourite place was probably Antica Gelateria dell’Accademia nestled in the alleyways just off of Corso.
And that’s a wrap for our postcards from Sorrento! I hope it’s helpful and you feel at ease should you find yourself there.
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